Winter Care

All Garden Ornaments require ongoing preservation and care. It is most beneficial to cover them during harsh winter months.

Limestone Fountains and Objects

Bac A Oranger

These garden planters have a structure made of aluminum. Please understand there will be maintenance needed to upkeep their fresh appearance.

Terra Cotta

Our Tuscan terra cotta planters are frost resistant, as they are made of the Tuscan Galestro clay and are frost resistant to -22 F below. They should be set on feet on off the ground, so no frost is below the planter. In extreme temperatures we would recommend moving the planters inside or totally covering them including your plant, as no water should remain in the planter.

The classic beauty of these English terra cotta garden planter is combined with an engineered synthetic fiber and cement, and therefore make it ideal for all-weather use. Planters can remain outside while planted throughout the winter. These intricate planters have been molded and hand finished in the traditional manner it has been since the Bygone era. Drainage holes included.

Terra Cotta Furnishings

We recommend moving terra cotta garden furnishings and tile tables inside during harsh winter months as they are not frost proof.

General Cleaning

Kindly contact us and we will let you know regarding the maintenance and conservation of the object. As our objects mostly have an aged / antique patina, we suggest that unwanted mold or moss should be just brushed off of the limestone stone and marble surfaces carefully.

Lead Fountains

Do not clean the fountain with soap or any chemical product as lead can react with chemicals. Please do not use any descaler or chlorine to keep the water clean. The lead surface should only be cleaned with cloth and water

Empty the fountain before the begin of Winter. The fountain needs to be emptied before outdoor temperature reaches 32 degrees (F). Empty the fountain. When no more water is running switch off and clean the pump. Ideally the fountain should be covered so no water can enter.

Mouth Blown Glassware

Each Authentic Provence glass piece is individually mouth-blown using traditional glassmaking techniques. In keeping with our philosophy each piece is unique and no two are exactly the same. Variations in size, color, and structure are to be expected and celebrated.

Because of the traditional production process our glassware can contain air bubbles and is sensitive to temperature differences. Fast cooling or heating may damage or even break the glass. We therefore advise extra carefulness, including during washing which we recommend doing by hand. Glass items that carry a seal are particularly sensitive to heat, so we strongly advise not to pour hot drinks or liquids in them.

Bluestone and Marble Tables

Authentic Provence works solely with natural stones. Belgian Bluestone can be used indoors as well as outdoors. Its low porosity makes the material resistant to frost and pollution. The tops do not need to be covered in winter. Carrara marble tables are best kept indoors. Our stones are mined from nature which means that they contain fossils. As a result, white/greyish marks or veins run through the stone. The quantity and size varies from piece to piece. This is an inherent characteristic of the stones and does not affect their quality.

Grease marks on the stones will eventually fade with exposure to the sun and rain. This can take anywhere from several weeks to several months depending on the nature and amount of the grease. For quicker results, you can use water with 2 spoonfuls of ammonia or a good detergent.

Superficial micro-scratches are normal and will over time give the top a beautiful patina. To nourish the stone and reduce micro-scratches, you may treat the top with natural glycerin-based soap diluted in water. You can simply clean the stone by nourishing it from time to time with a small amount of natural glycerin-based soap. In order to avoid breakage, always place your bluestone table tops perfectly horizontal and level on the designated base and make sure that there are no small scraps of stone or other materials stuck between the top and base.

Installation Guidelines for Reclaimed Terracotta Tiles

It is strongly recommended that reclaimed Terracotta is laid using a tile adhesive. Do not use a mortar mix.

A minimum of two coats of sealant should be applied after laying and prior to grouting. Allow the Sealant to fully penetrate the surface. Any excess should be sponged off. Once the terracotta has been sealed it should be left for at least 8 hours. Once grouted a further coat of sealant should be applied . Some sealants may take as long as 24 hours to dry. If Boiled Linseed Oil is to be applied, this must be done prior to sealing and left to fully dry. Drying time – 24 hours.

All necessary movement joints such as the surrounds of baths etc. should either be initially filled with suitable flexible mastic/silicone, or protected to ensure excess grout is not allowed to accumulate and set.

1. General Precautions

When applying grout to reclaimed terra cotta flooring, ensure that an appropriate coating of sealant has been applied before grouting to aid cleaning of the tile surfaces:

Always ensure that mixing containers and tools are clean and free of previous grout mixes.
Always mix the grout with clean water free of contaminants such as salt etc.
Do not mix grouts of different types and manufacturers, and do not mix with cements or limes etc.
Read the manufacturer’s instructions to ascertain the ‘pot life’ (working time) and bear this in mind when mixing up a batch of grout.

Ensure that you are able to apply all the material mixed prior to the pot life being exceeded.

2. Preparing the joints

The joints to be grouted must be dry, clean and free of dust and foreign matter. They should be clear for at least 2/3 of the depth of the tile – any excess mortar or adhesive must be removed.

3. Preparing the grout

Whilst stirring, pour the dry powder mix into a clean plastic bucket containing a small quantity of clean water (refer to manufacturer’s instructions for details of quantities). Mix until a smooth creamy paste is obtained. If available, use a slow speed mixer (maximum 150 rev/mm) to prevent the excessive formation of air bubbles. Leave the mix to stand for 2-3 minutes and then remix briefly before use. The working time of the grout changes between different types and manufacturers, varying from anything between 30 minutes to a few hours. If the grout starts to set before applying it to the tiles, do not add more water, simply discard and clean out the mixing container before making up another batch. After completing your work, ensure that any material left is removed from your container, and that the container is cleaned before the grout has cured.

4. Applying the grout

Always use the same method of working to obtain uniform results. Where the tiles are absorbent or the ambient temperature is very high lightly dampen the surfaces of the joints with a wet sponge before applying the grout. Fill the tile joints with the grout paste using either a hard rubber float or squeegee without leaving voids or gaps. Remove the excess grout from the surface by drawing the float diagonally across the joints whilst the paste is still fresh. Leave the paste to firm up in the joints until it is no longer plastic. Clean off the surplus grout with a damp hard cellulose sponge working diagonally across the joints without applying any pressure. Rinse the sponge frequently preferably using two buckets of water; one for removing the surplus paste from the sponge and the other for just clean water for the final rinsing of the sponge and moistening new ones. Use a special grouting sponge – the proverbial bath and household sponges rapidly fall to pieces become quickly overloaded with grout.